The slight hike it takes to get to Boalsburg is worth it if your destination is Kelly's Steak and Seafood, 316 Boal Ave.

Even if it is not where you're heading originally, you certainly can't miss the 12-foot-tall cow grazing on its roof. All novelties aside, Kelly's makes its mark with superior food, a comfortable atmosphere, decent service and a really impressive bar.

Kelly's is a quiet place on a Sunday afternoon. The actual restaurant doesn't open until 4:30 p.m., but the lounge opens at 2 p.m. The scene is very hip and colorful -- the walls are dipped in cool reds and blues, there are paintings and trendy beer signs hung on the walls, and the booths could probably fit a party of 10 with no trouble.

It is apparent that a lot of work went into building a conducive eating environment, which is important because for most people, comfort and atmosphere can really affect the dining experience.

While I was eating at Kelly's, there was only one server working, and he was bolting around the place tending two other tables and a barfly.

So service wasn't too quick, but on a lazy weekend afternoon, nobody really wants to be in a rush.

Despite his slight absenteeism, the service was actually quite good. I didn't have to ask for refills, and he had the answers to every question I had about menu items.

I sat at the bar, sipped on a Pepsi, and tackled the leather-bound menu. It's full of exotic appetizers, creative seafood dishes, traditional burgers and, of course, steaks.

There were some really good-looking soups on the menu and, as always, a couple of salads. Kelly's prices are a bit heavy on the wallet, but with due cause.

I was eyeing up a fried prawn dish, but there was no kidding myself. I was definitley in the mood for a steak.

The 10-oz. sirloin was the name of the game. Though it took some time for the meal to come out, the presentation really caught my eye. The 10-oz. cut of sirloin was sitting in a light sauce and overlapped by some grilled vegetables and some exceptional mashed potatoes.

The mashed potatoes were mixed with garlic and Yukon Jack whisky. The first bite of steak sent a shock wave across my pallet. It was cooked perfectly. Each bite was juicer and more tender than the previous.

The sauces, all of which are made in house, added a welcomed bit of spice to the steak. Everything on my plate was just off the charts -- and everything was also gone by the end of the meal.

Sitting at the bar, I got a good look at the booze selection. They have a great selection of single malt whiskies, high-end rums, tequilas and vodkas.

With a good variety of imports and microbrews, the bottled beer selection is just as impressive. The only thing that could make things better would be wider variety of draft beers. The only things on tap were Yuengling, Bud Light and Labatt.

I suggest you forget about convenience and gas prices and take the quick 10-minute drive to Boalsburg.

Kelly's is the perfect place for a date; just make sure you've got some extra padding in your wallet.

Most of the entrees pack a big punch: Two people should expect to pay a far-from-modest $80 dollars for a full meal and dessert, but the food is just tasty enough that it might make someone forget how much it costs.