Seven pan-seared scallops the size of small saucers sit atop a bed of steamed spinach. Dip these lightly browned $7 succulent circles into the sweet yet spicy peach chutney and an explosion of buttery texture and tangy flavor ensues.

These sumptuous shellfish are one of several appetizers that embody the new atmosphere of Harrison's Wine Country Grill, 1221 E. College Ave, which moved in January from its location on North Atherton Street. The restaurant still offers takeout and catering, but the redesigned menu creates a more "upscale casual" dining experience.

Translation: quality food in an unpretentious environment.

Housed within the Hilton Garden Inn, a seven-foot wall separates the sunny high-ceilinged room from the rest of hotel. White drapes cover the large windows and the glow of the early evening illuminates the interior.

Red plaid chairs tuck into white tablecloth-covered tables where, in lieu of candles, the tables are topped with flower-filled blue bottles.

In the center of the room, four booths are interlaced using a partition.

Their cushy tan sofa-style seats are inviting. Green plants loom over head, branching out of pots mounted on walls and set on tables.

On a Friday night the 50-seat restaurant is full, but not bustling.

At the back, a large opening allows a clear view of Chef Harrison Schailey at work. The man known to his two line cooks as "the freestyle chef" attends to two large pans of sizzling suppers while dusting a third pan with oil. The black-capped Schailey stirs in the finishing touches to a bubbling dish of what appears to be the Thai Coconut Curry Shrimp ($13) before pouring it around a mound of jasmine rice.

The black cardboard menu with gold trim lists the shrimp as one of eight entrées for the grill and oven, none of which exceed $20.

For an appetizer, the Almond-Dusted Goat Cheese with Crostini ($6) can be shared with the whole table, though the fluffy bread could supplant the need for the dish.

The Goat Cheese Polenta is another way to get your goat-cheese fix. The yellow cornmeal-based dish is simplistic and smooth. It also comes as a side dish accompanying the Rosemary Grilled Lambchops, six separate medallions of meat grilled while attached to thin bones ($17).

The Grilled Caribbean Marlin ($17), a special, consists of three generously sized pieces of a steak-like fish, served in a spice rub over rice and a potpourri of multi-colored vegetables and flowers.

Pairing these dishes with wine can be a struggle for diners -- as the wine list says, "Let's face it, the world of wine can be daunting."

One solution: When in doubt, abide by the recommendations of the capable service staff sporting white dress shirts and black pants. Having tried the specials also bolsters their knowledge, though it is doubtful that they sample the featured cocktails like tonight's Mocha or Cappuccino Manhattan ($7).