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[ Thursday, Nov. 11, 2004 ]

Aye Qdoba!
Qdoba offers Mexican food with flare, but for a pricey fare

Collegian Staff Writer

I write this review to you from a youth hostel somewhere east of here, as I've been wandering aimlessly around Centre County in the few days since I got booted off campus, lost my apartment and was forced into the streets.

How did this happen, you might be wondering. Well, I ordered three menu items from Qdoba Mexican Grill, a new fast-food joint at 206 W. College Ave., and it broke my bank.

I'll get to the prices shortly, but first: the atmosphere. Qdoba's atmosphere isn't so much quaint as it is "quaint," complete with a perky illustration of Mexican cultivators amidst other arts and crafts that adorn the west wall. The east wall pays homage to State College with its meticulous, if half-hearted, assortment of Penn State paraphernalia cordoned across it like an Applebee's wall with obsessive-compulsive disorder.

I didn't have the scratch to buy a bunch of different menu items so, considering my distaste for meat, I went for the Grilled Vegetable Burrito, the de-chickened Poblano Pesto Burrito and the chips and Warm 3-Cheese Queso with salsa -- and no, not all at once. Three separate trips.

If you go
What: Qdoba Mexican Grill
Where: 206 W. College Ave.

I found the Grilled Vegetable Burrito big and strangely damp, but pretty good and definitely filling, even if I didn't see the need for it to be jam-packed with white rice as it was. The reliably rich flavor of the black beans was a plus on this dish, but the high point was definitely the zucchini, which happily lingered as the dominant aftertaste once I had finished my meal.

The de-chickened Poblano Burrito was even better, I thought, especially when layered with the spiciest sauce and wrapped with a suspiciously moist tortilla shell. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to coax them into putting eggplant in the burrito, so I had to settle with pinto beans, rendering the dish somewhat less filling than I would have liked.

PHOTO: Kevin Clancey
PHOTO: Kevin Clancey
A cook prepares a flaming skillet for customers.

The chips and salsa were somewhat mundane and ultimately forgettable, but the Warm 3-Cheese Queso -- i.e. American, Swiss and Monterey Jack -- had an awesome taste, soothingly warm but with a slightly tangy kick. The goodness of the Queso didn't quite justify the tricky way it is packaged.

The Queso costs $1.19, which is acceptable, even if it is about as much as they could possibly charge for what's basically a shot's worth of melted cheese. Chips and salsa cost $1.49, but you can instead order a "small side" of chips and salsa for 79 cents. Chips with Queso cost a whopping $2.69. After a few minutes of trying to recall fourth-grade arithmetic, I figured out I could order the small of chips and salsa and then get the Queso on the side, and I'd save 70 cents.

I proposed this to the guy at the register, but he wasn't digging it.

"It's considered chips and Queso," he said, "so I have to charge you for that." Although some part of me wanted to get all Jack Nicholson on him and angrily chastise the restaurant for the menu's logical fallacies, my more rational side took over and I reluctantly coughed up the three bucks.

Which brings me back to my biggest problem with Qdoba. It isn't the food. Qdoba's burritos are at least as good as any others I've eaten locally (i.e. Taco Bell, Casa Ortega in the HUB-Robeson Center), but they aren't so incredible that I'll pay that much money for them. I mean, come on! We're college students, man, we can't go spending $5 on a cheese quesadilla. A cheese quesadilla? That ought to be two bucks tops.

Although Qdoba is going to be open until 2 a.m. on weekends, they don't have any special late-night deals. Got that? So when you're wandering home drunk at 1:40, remember to have a ten-dollar bill handy. Unless you want pizza for a buck, that is. Then all you need is a buck.

Oh, and if you've found this article to your liking, please be kind enough to drop a donation in my can. I'm trying to save up enough money to try that cheese quesadilla before I graduate.


PHOTO: Kevin Clancey
PHOTO: Kevin Clancey
Qdoba features fast food that is made right in front of the customer.
 



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