Before Ang Lee turned to directing action movies like Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon and Hulk, he quietly made some of the best movies of the 1990s. None of them had sword fights or special effects, but they held an emotional punch far more palpable than any of the explosions in Hulk.

In keeping with the spirit of the season, I thought it was appropriate to recommend The Ice Storm, Lee's heart-wrenching drama about miserably misplaced lust set against the backdrop of a Thanksgiving weekend in the 1970s. I discovered, however, that former Collegian writer Jackie Roberts already did just that in her appropriately gushing review from September 2001.

Determined to recommend an Ang Lee alternative to the bloated Hollywood Hulk, however, I will settle for another one of his masterpieces that is appropriate to the occasion: Eat Drink Man Woman from 1994.

Admittedly, it isn't about Thanksgiving. It isn't even set in America.

Still, it is about family and it is about food. So, it's a close enough fit for our Thanksgiving issue.

Set in China, the film chronicles renowned chef Chu and his three daughters, Jia-Jen, Jia-Chien and Jia-Ning. The family has a Sunday tradition of eating one of Chu's home-cooked delights and announcing to one another the news of the week. Through these uncomfortable gatherings, we sense the elephant in the dining room and throughout the film, none of the family members seem able to share their troubles with one another.

Jia-Jen finds solace in her devotion to Christianity, Jia-Chien in her devotion to her job, and Jia-Ning in her youthful devotion to her love life. Chu, for his part, immerses himself in his work, although lately, in a beautiful touch of poetic irony, he has lost his sense of taste. He connects more with his old friend and coworker, Wen, then he does with any of his daughters.

As each family member seeks out his or her own destiny, the story gradually develops into a tangled tapestry of human desires, but one that is subtly woven and filled with humor -- not to mention drool-inducing, appetizing food.

"Eat, drink, man, woman. Food and sex. Basic human desires. Can't avoid them! All my life, everyday, all I do. It pisses me off," Chu says to Wen at one point in the film. It's amazing how much one line of dialogue can reveal simultaneously about a character, a movie and the human condition. Lee's longtime scribe James Schamus is a master at such lines.

Much of the film's resonance lies in its performances. I think anyone with multiple sisters can testify that the way this film's sisters relate to one another bears an undeniable resemblance to reality. Chien-lien Wu is particularly impressive as workaholic Jia-Chien, who manages to wordlessly convey her inner conflicts with understated ease. Jui Wang is also note-perfect in his portrayal of Wen, who just oozes that favorite-uncle charm that they can't teach at the Actors Studio.

What is most satisfying, though, about Eat Drink Man Woman is it's refreshing unpredictability.

The surprises come as unexpectedly and hilariously as they often do in real life. Thus, if you enjoy life, you'll enjoy Eat Drink Man Woman.

And you might just develop a yearning for some alternative Thanksgiving dishes as well.