Webster's Dictionary defines a bistro as "a small or unpretentious European wineshop or restaurant."

In the case of Zola's New World Bistro, unpretentious is hardly the word to describe their restaurant.

Recently refurbished from the void left by a relocated Appalachian Ski & Outdoor at 324 W. College Ave, Zola's opened its doors in late March. Since then, Zola's holds its head a little higher than most of downtown restaurants -- and debatably so.

The first look at the menu may require another peek into Webster's. The list of whiskey, rum, vodka and gin cocktails is a full menu page -- two for their wine list. Needing a sobriety shake, I ordered a Rusty Nail, a whiskey on the rocks served in a wide, get-drunk-fast glass with a fat base. This drink is so stiff it can make the Buckingham Palace guards jealous.

Again, Webster's came in handy when the jumbo lump crab cake appetizer was served. "A food that stimulates the appetite" is the definition of an appetizer. Finally, a restaurant gets it right by dishing out tummy teasers instead of hunger halters. Dripping in olive oil and sprinkled with sweet potato sticks, the crabcake was amazing. At eight and a half dollars, however, there are entire meals you can buy ... twice.

All the while, our extravagant meals were being sautéed, grilled, roasted and boiled. When courteously placed in front of me, my farfella pasta with toasted walnut pesto and shaved Parmesan reggiano cheese seemed too beautiful to eat. Also as gorgeous was the vegetarian napoleon with roasted peppers, mushrooms and basil under a lemon butter sauce.

But as beautiful as they are, the names and prices of many the entrees are bigger than the meals themselves. My advice is to eat slow or order another cocktail to prepare yourself when you flip over the tab.

The atmosphere: Cozy lights shimmer a spacious, but echoing, seating area. During a typical dinner rush, holding a low-decibel conversation is rather difficult under the clamor of their racketing kitchen staff. Pastel paintings line the pastel colored walls. Symmetry is everywhere, giving me the feeling that I was actually in a painting.

But maybe that was the Rusty Nail thinking.

The service was attentive -- my water never reached half-empty (it was already a bad day) before it was promptly filled. Extra lightbulb-sized rolls were brought out upon request and smiles were free of charge.

Zola's location may be a hindrance in reaching its targeted, mildly pretentious demograph. Like the Tavern, 220 E. College Ave. and the Autoport, 1405 S. Atherton St., Zola's prices and ambiance are too high-culture for poor college students. Graduation or a hot date would be permitting circumstances to drop $50 on dinner for two. The elegance of another shirt and tie restaurant may not be what college students are looking for on West College Avenue when Taco Bell is right next door.