In the refrigerator behind the counter is an array of cheeses from countries like Italy, Denmark and England, fit to grace a king's dinner table.

To the left is the daunting metal coffee roasting machine, taking up a space equivalent to at least five human beings standing in a cluster. When I arrived, owner Bill Clarke had already been there since 6 a.m. He was busy stirring and shifting the aromatic beans heating in the tray, but that didn't stop him from turning a kind shoulder my way to say hello.

A glance at the confections lining the counter struck a chord in my head that sang the word, "Europe!" Anyone having visited European countries such as Germany, France or Belgium would recognize labels like Lindt, Milka, and Ritter Sport in a heartbeat . . . and if you're any sort of chocolate enthusiast, that heartbeat will surely quicken at the sight of such treats.

Clarke knows his way around the world of quality edibles. The shelves of his store are lined with nothing but the best in all sorts of gourmet products. Perhaps most impressive is the abundance of choices within each genre of food.

Clarke has an entire shelf dedicated to hot sauces. Another to jams and preserves. Another to vinegar. He has a wall loaded with teas in exotic flavors like IndoChina and Mao Feng Green, either pre-packaged into teabags or contained as loose tea leaves in plastic bubble jars. And the coffees . . . oh my, the coffees. From Guatemalan Hueheutenango to Vienna Roast, the selection is almost too much to comprehend.

"I have people come in from the city for football weekends and they find products here you can't find in the city," Clarke said in regard to the store's vast selection. "During the holidays we carry over 200 and some cheeses. We have a large selection of goat cheeses and pates. We have most things that fit most people's palates. They're almost all from Europe," he said.

I was able to sample a few of the cheeses, including the Cambozola, a mild spreadable bleu cheese from Germany, and the French Morbier, a firm, rich cheese. Clarke serves samples to customers on tiny crackers so that they may try before they buy.

Café regular Joe Kardos (graduate-leisure studies) got a steaming cup of joe and took a seat outside at a round glass table.

"I'm from Europe, and this place has this European charm. The selection and the stuff are what you might expect from a European café and the people are nice, friendly and easy-going."

According to Clarke, many of his clients hail from places all over Europe and the United States, although State College's own make regular appearances as well.

"(My customers are) people that like good or nice things," Clarke said. "That doesn't necessarily mean it's a student or a faculty member. It could be anyone. We have a very eclectic clientele. Certain shops have certain clientele. We don't," Clarke said.

While the Cheese Shoppe may be a fabulous and exciting venture, it is certainly not a new one. Clarke has been in the cheese business for 25 years now.

"It was a cheese shop way before it was a café. We started roasting our own coffee 14 years ago. I have people come in that went to school here. Now their kids are in school. That's scary," Clarke laughed. "And they say, 'My God, it hasn't changed.' "

A few students came in and took their coffee outside into the early morning air.

Phil Brychta (senior-architectural engineering) was one of them. "I've been coming here since I was a sophomore. It just has the best coffee in town. There's money on the counter and you make your own change. It's just a very loose atmosphere. I like that at 8 o'clock in the morning," Brychta said.

A quick glance inside verified Brychta's statement. There really is just a pile of money on the counter with which customers can make their own change.

The trusting, homey atmosphere is compounded by the fact that Clarke knows just about every customer by name and occupation. Add to that the fact that he makes efforts to work closely with other locals, who, for example, bake the shop's muffins, and you might feel inclined to make one of the many large sacks of coffee beans scattered around the floor your permanent residence.

But maybe you'll just want to start by dropping by.