The classic textbook answer to the question of proper interview attire awards full credit to applicants who mark their appearances heavy and dark with black, navy or gray jackets and straight-collar white shirts beneath.

Furthermore, convention expects skirts from all those candidates who bubble "F" for female and dress trousers from all males.

Yet answers may vary, depending on the examiner granting employment.

Generally students with conservative majors such as engineering, accounting and business are advised to stick to the conventional look like firmly placed post-it notes.

However, as with their work, students with majors such as marketing, hotel and restaurant management and the arts typically allot a bit more freedom of expression.

One's margin of liberty also depends on the company. Some businesses are simply more footloose and collar-free than others.

For instance, after receiving a clear "OK" from Microsoft, Ben Gibson (senior-finance) booted up for his interview in a dress shirt, khakis and no tie.

"They try to keep you as comfortable as possible," Gibson said of the seemingly laid-back employers at the computer conglomerate, "because they ask some pretty tough questions."

Recommendations among retailers come in about as many colors as the spectrum allows.

Bob Steinbach, owner of Connections, 130 S. Allen St., resides on the far right when it comes to interview apparel, insisting upon the ultraconservative look.

Interview attire, according to Steinbach, ultimately should be seen and not heard. It should not say anything about the applicant — except possibly confirming that he or she is neat and well kept.

"Your clothing should fit well and be very clean and conservative," he said.

"But you're the statement. You should stand out," Steinbach said.

Bearing this sentiment in mind, he sends his female customers off onto the Allen Street runway in fitted skirt suits and three- or four-button single-breasted jackets.

Guys walk away with two- or three-button notch jackets, dress trousers and primarily foulard ties — those with geometrically based designs discernible only by reading the small print.

Meanwhile, thundering from the opposite pulpit, sales associate Barbara Rossano of Mr. Charles, 228 E. College Ave., argues that apparel best-fitted for the occasion can convey seriousness but also a touch of creativity.

"I like to show a little punch, to show that the person is innovative and creative," she said, dangling her fingers in the ripples created in a deep blue sleeve of one coordinated set.

"Nothing that would diminish her," she added in a hasty clarification, "but just enough to show a little flair."

To ignite this assertion of pizzazz, Rossano endorses soft linen rather than the traditional form-fitting skirt.

"It's somewhat conservative," she said of linen coverage, "but a little more feminine than the straight skirt."

Even when a firm insists upon a suit, a vibrant candidate can assert creativity within the traditional ensemble by allowing a double collar to bubble out at the neckline, Rossano said.

Sales associate Barry Walsky of Gia & Co., 114 S. Allen St., also suggested enterprising little splatters of character within the standard suit set such as pin stripes, French cuffs and double-breasted jackets.

Colors also can convey audacity, Walsky said.

Applicants can show a bit more daring by coupling the standard jacket with an off-white color like sand or eggshell or plunge chest-first into the interview with a shade of bright blue or cobalt beneath.

"We're bringing in color now," Rossano said, skipping around the store, alighting on olive, cobalt and even bright pink samples.

"It's spring. You want to show joie de vive," Rossano said.

The key, she said, is to bring splash of color back to a black bottom.

Meanwhile, manager Joshua Nolan of Kelly's Shoes, 126 E. College Ave., gives frequent advisement on proper choices for the ground floor of one's ensemble.

For women, pumps are giving way to dress loafers like those from Nine West, he said.

He recommends a plain so-called Venetian front, which lacks the penny, kilty and tassle hoopla that decorates more casual ladies' shoes.

Men do best with lace-up dress shoes sporting thin soles and cap toes as opposed to the wing style found on the feet of primarily older chaps.

But the range of styles is about as open as the job market.

"As long as it's got a fairly high shine and a fairly high sole and as long as it doesn't have big lugs, it's generally good," he said.

While Nolan sees his share of navy purchases among ladies and burgundy among gents, the most popular shade for both sexes pairs up.

"Traditionally black is where it is," he said, reflecting on the color he most often sees walk out with job seekers. "That's the color to be."

Following strict convention in interview attire in may pay off in more ways than one.

Manager Cindy Hess of the Young Mens Shop, 216 E. Calder Way, advocates the standard formalities because they make great staple items in case all goes well and the student makes the payroll.

"The basic suit will not only take them for interview but is a good base for the wardrobe for when they get into the business world," she said.

"It will take them almost anywhere they want to go," Hess said.

Indeed, according to Hess, "Business Meeting Man" can become his alterego, "Social Event Guy," with just one easy shirt and tie change.

But even simple summer jobs require a cut above the regular cut-off, hang-out look of the season.

Speaking with the past experience of several summer jobs hanging off her belt, Jaime Potts (sophomore-psychology) suggested a pair of khakis or a khaki skirt.

Owner Dan Pivirotto of Ye Old College Diner, 126 W. College Ave., would second that proposal.

He's seen more than a fair helping of less-than-qualified outfits.

"I understand if you pop in off the street and stop in for an application and you're wearing whatever," he said.

Then his air turned like an oscillating fan from understanding to reproof, as he trailed off into disapproval.

"But when you actually come in for an interview looking like a real knucklehead. . ..

"I hate to sound like my father," he continued, "but I'm surprised how stupid people can be. You should just use common sense. I mean, didn't your parents teach you what to wear to your aunt's house for dinner?"

For Pivirotto, an outfit verbalizes one's level of respect for others about as loudly and clearly as Aretha Franklin's hit song.

"How are you going to treat my customers if you don't know how to dress properly?" he said.

"If you don't even respect your interviewer, how are you going to respect the people who come here and eat?"